House style. Exactly my thoughts, Thanks Simon. Don’t alter a thing. All points designed to elongate the body. A very elegant suit. Would you ask Richard to change anything on the suit if you had it made today?I just wonder if your ideas on style have altered much over the years.For example,are you still happy with the jackets length or the width of the trousers bottoms,say 15″ today? As somebody who has had a lot of trousers made by various tailors, what would you suggest is normal/usual in terms of the amount of material turned underneath especially as far as evening wear is concerned? The tailor on their own charges 5k; the brand sells the same product for 8k. Right sleeve isn’t finished well at the back. Do you think it looks more formal? Bob (first comment) raises the issue of cost in 2014. The side seams are waisted with a slight flare over the hips with the pockets and vents all kept a little higher than the norm. Otherwise, it’s a matter of personal taste. I like the pleats on the trousers; they look very well made. I’d always wear an Oxford then. Stees, which ia very US focused, have used this to raise their prices over 50% in the last few years. Thanks, and excited to see the rest of this series! Dear Simon, I’m happy to use the two interchangeably. An excellent start to what promises to be a really informative series. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Price (at the time of writing)… is that correct, its the price it would be today (given you’ve written this article today)? It was after all, invented by Henry Poole and ‘tuxedo’ is named after the tuxedo club in New York nine years later . I get what you mean about it being too crisp. I believe no one from Huntsman currently ever even had flow through training from any Hammick disciples like Anderson and likely cuts their own interpretation of the iconic Hammick Huntsman cut. Never liked patent much – it puts me off that it’s basically a layer of plastic, I also wouldn’t wear black suede sagans with the more formal black tie. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Also saves wearing a waistcoat or cummerbund, which you should really do with a single breasted. It doesn’t require it, no. I’ve normally seen waistcoats cut a little closer than this, although, you may not care to go jacketless anyway. If it were a classic car curation price new and current market value would both be listed. Like most new openings, he sought to create a modern environment. Thank you that would be very interesting to find out Simon. What are your thoughts on this? I really like the details of this suit. Great images too. It looks a little fussy and can cause this kind of issue with balancing that and the jacket. On the drape I assume that this is something to do with the crispness of the fabric? They’re somewhat close to opera pumps, but less affected (at least to me, particularly without the little bow tie). Richard, of course, was at Huntsman for a long time, at the end as head cutter, and his style is similar to their classic cut. Don your highborn cloak: Ralph Lauren, saviour? I know static photos aren’t ideal, but it seems that on some suits your back is really clean (e.g. In terms of make, the buttonholes are slim and neat – fairly standard for good West End suits – and the grosgrain facing (on the lapels) has been put on by hand. Would you recommend a double breasted jacket as part of the black tie ensemble ? I would personally value having most measurements and style points linked into a broader commentary of the impression the suit makes. The leading British blog on tailoring, luxury and men's style, Price (at time of writing): £7860 (incl VAT). The example below is specifically designed to improve your profile, accentuate your chest and allow you to walk tall and proud of your bespoke suit. My question is the following: when wearing a tropical dinner jacket with shawl lapel, is recommended to use (or not to) a satin cloth on the lapel? I will echo your comment towards the end on opting for a more dramatic cut for a garment like the tux. But I’d always want to keep the seat covered. Peter, If the difference is that large, then yes I would go to a different tailor. Keeping to classical styles in evening wear (peaked lapels and scooped waistcoat stylistically speak of 1920’s through to 1950’s) ensures greater longevity and thus greater value from the garment. I won’t address any of the fit points, because as stated many times, it’s not possible to make those kind of judgements based on photos like this. Of course if you have a jacket shortened I think its difficult to have it lengthened again as there isn’t cloth at the front curve so you are stuck. This was a very interesting article, thank you. Captoes as you wear it here, Wholecuts or Opera Pumps? I still wear it regularly, I prefer it my other dinner suits ,it’s nearly always commented on and I still am delighted to wear it. Hammick taught Anderson the importance of perfection, measuring everything to within a sixteenth of an inch. In regard to the lapels, how do they compare with the sizing of the lapels on your Chittleborough & Morgan bespoke suit: width and gorge height? Which of those they are, however, and which one (or neither) extends below the pocket to the bottom edge, varies considerably between tailors. My issue is more to do with style; it’s complex with idiosyncrasies that don’ quite chime. Regards I could use some explanation of the round and belly. Richard anderson is the leading bespoke tailor on Savile Row. Interesting. Look at the side photo. I guess my aim is to be comprehensive at the level of the style of the cut in the jacket – and then add other interesting points. It can be a very nice excuse to wear a DB, where it might seem too formal in the office these days. Thank you. I’m really looking forward to other episodes. Simon – hope you’re well. Some tailors would try to create an impression of width here by using sleevehead roll (padding and often canvas) to lift up the top of the sleeve. I find it gives a cleaner line down the crease. Was the decision to cut a vent your choice, or was this Richard Anderson’s default? I would leave the basics like jacket length the same, but I might ask for a slightly broader lapel perhaps – as mentioned, that’s very much a question of taste though. Might be completely on the wrong thread but couldn’t find a relevant one. The quarters (below the waist button) are quite closed, and the hips cut neat. Great points on how to make the technical points more relevant. As mentioned in the introduction to this series, I won’t comment on the style of the waistcoat (as there are hardly any to compare it to among my suits) and only mention the measurements of the trousers in the list below. This is a little unusual for Savile Row tailors, who are more likely to have a dart or cut at the front that ends at the pocket, and a cut behind that that runs all the way to the bottom edge (creating a ‘side body’ between that cut and the side seam). Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Mostly in the shoulder…less padding or “softer” than classic Hammick Huntsman. Beautiful but a heck of a price. For a dinner jacket I would prefer a more dramatic cut since it’s one of the types of jackets where it works best, but I know this follow’s Anderson’s house style. To be honest I don’t know that much on the technical side of the fabric, but I can look into it. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. My question now is, how does one know if the back of a suit is fine or not? I would like to get your thoughts on keeping the lapels the same fabric as the tuxedo, as oppose to covering them in grosgrain or satin. Monday to Friday 9am – 5 pm Most (if not all) of the good cutters, with a very, but prominent exceptions, have retired anyways so it is not as if SR offers any advantage in cut as opposed to many other places. Though even his style has evolved from Hammick era. Thoughts? Thank you Harvey. It really depends on the style you want and to an extent your budget. Is that Richard Anderson’s preference? None of those things are required for an X shape across the body. Hopefully it's not a permanent closure but the above doesn't sound very auspicious. Though I believe most SR tailors have eased up on padding nowadays. Bryan Ferry, André Leon Talley, George Michael. Mohair doesn’t have the same drape or age as nicely. A little, yes, but it’s not as big a difference as the shoulder or chest, Hi, I completely appreciate your point, but we've talked over this area so much, and nothing changes - there is no bias on my part, and most readers don't perceive a bias either. Simon – thanks for the review, and nice to finally see the RA tux in greater detail. I’d be interested to know how much it cost in 2014. Does an X shape necessarily require extended shoulders? I should also say that, as with everything I do, this series is not done by me in isolation. This particular jacket has turn back cuffs on the sleeves which I have never seen before on a dinner jacket. Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. If it had been higher (sternum) the v would compliment the cut. My sense is that with a tuxedo, one normally would have flat front trousers to maximize simplicity. Thanks Clive. But you often see them with satin as well. I find most traditional English tailors aim for a Y rather than an X unless asked to to otherwise. Especially if going to the row, the sums are substantial and I would really want to know exactly what I am paying for. As regards the price, I don’t know how old you are but from your photographs I would thin that suit woul be good for another 20years. You hear the marketing stuff about Mohair ie the diamond fibre, but never hear about much else) Its so expensive that not many people seem to order it these days. Hi Simon, Gentlemen: The 1 button house style features a neat structured shoulder with no rope to the sleeve head. The house style is one of long clean lines, with the look and fit designed to accentuate and improve the figure. Any idea why? You’re completely right to be cautious in that regard, and I would suggest visiting Richard (when you can) and trying something he has made to get a sense of what he might do naturally. The lapels are self-faced, and I think that was what was being referred to. A series of direct measures are taken, and a customer’s individual and unique paper pattern is constructed considering posture and figuration. In addition the decline of the pounds vs major currencies allows for prices increases in sterling which seem less steep in say USD. Will be interesting to see when this will stop. I can’t remember, let me check. And the waistcoat is entirely traditional. They do a whole range of them, but personally I’d quite like just black suede. . Personally, to be honest, I’m happy to use them interchangeably. Interesting how you describe the peak lapel as being narrow, since it doesn’t look that way overall. On another note: For a cutter to see it and disagree with all my points so soon after I made them is impressively quick work Simon. I’d love to get one but can’t justify the price as I’d hardly ever use it sadly. In this tux it appears to show roughly 1.5″ of cuff. Jackets generally have two darts or cuts on either side at the front, to help create shape through the waist. That thought led to a trek to Joe Morgan, and his more aggressively styled tux sits in stark (and, in my opinion, superior) contrast to the more sedate Steed. My choice. Both these things could be used to give an impression of fullness or roundness to the chest. Not that’s it’s a bad piece, not at all, but I had expected more of a flared coat (isn’t that the Huntsman style?) As a customer would you try and discuss with him the style of double breasted lapel you like (similar to the Caraceni’s – long wider and with a bit of belly and round) or would you go to another tailor only for the double breasted.
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